2007 chevy silverado evap vent solenoid

Started my truck this AM, immediately got my first CEL. According to my scanner it's P0499, which is a problem with the evap system. Parts wise this is usually the purge valve on the engine or the vent solenoid back by the gas tank. I'll do a little common sense troubleshooting first, but I'd like to know which part is the most likely culprit if I can't find an obvious wiring or plumbing issue. Any advice on this code would be much appreciated.
Side note: I tried clearing the code with my scanner to see if it would return quickly, but the CEL never went out. I've done this countless time before on other vehicles and the light always went out at least for a little while. I haven't disconnected the battery yet, I'll be doing that while troubleshooting, maybe that will do something. This is the first problem I've had with this truck so far, I have a bit to learn.
Thanks again.

I was planning on replacing my upper and lower control arms, outer tie rods (all boots are cracked and torn), and sway bar (it’s cracked). I was thinking about replacing the coil spring and shock while I’m in there. The coil spring has to come out anyway to change the control arm. Should I replace the coil springs if they aren’t damaged. They are original with 196k miles on them. Another problem is that my service part identification says it should be a 6MT and 7MT which would make it gm part number 15032651 which is discontinued. They still make ones that fit a 6MS, 7MS part number 15032650 and I’m not sure if it would fit or not. Is this something I should just replace if it breaks? If so should I just go to the junk yard to find it? They are pretty expensive to get the wrong part. Thanks.

Started my truck this AM, immediately got my first CEL. According to my scanner it's P0499, which is a problem with the evap system. Parts wise this is usually the purge valve on the engine or the vent solenoid back by the gas tank. I'll do a little common sense troubleshooting first, but I'd like to know which part is the most likely culprit if I can't find an obvious wiring or plumbing issue. Any advice on this code would be much appreciated.
Side note: I tried clearing the code with my scanner to see if it would return quickly, but the CEL never went out. I've done this countless time before on other vehicles and the light always went out at least for a little while. I haven't disconnected the battery yet, I'll be doing that while troubleshooting, maybe that will do something. This is the first problem I've had with this truck so far, I have a bit to learn.
Thanks again.

Hello! What is the normal pressure for an EVAP system supposed to sit at?
I just replaced the EVAP Vent Solenoid and the readings went from -460pa to averaging -140pa after... so it has made a difference, I just don't know if it's in a good range or not now... my reader is still showing the -140pa reading as red so i'm not sure..
Guessing there's still another issue along the route somewhere? So far i've replaced the charcoal canister and the Vent Solenoid... have a vent valve and new gas cap on the way to replace as well...
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Thanks...

Hi, Previously have replaced the following w/ new parts in the last 8 months at mechanic. Previously had various codes come up but about once a month, P1174 shows up randomly. It was suggested on diagnostic that the catalytic converter had a leak at the manifold causing the code and told me to take it to the shop that did my catalytic converter and they found no such leak, but from what I understand; found that the engine was burning oil internally excessively (was 2 quarts down) and was making it throw the code due to oil being burned in the exhaust. They told me to not put any money into the car anymore. I’m obviously at a loss here as to how to go forward with this as i’m not in the position to buy a new car at this time and would like to have the problem fixed, whatever it may be so I can at least have peace of mind with this vehicle for a year or so and not worry about taking it on the freeway for a 100 mile round trip.
Here is what has been replaced from what I remember.
Spark plugs Exhaust manifold Catalytic converter Fuel injectors Various evap system parts to include solenoid, vent valve, air injector valve, oxygen sensors upstream and downstream Air filter Water pump Valve cover gaskets Fuel pump MAF and MAP sensor

Is there a way of removing and replacing the evap solenoid without dropping the rear subframe. Mazda says it would take half a day. And not recommended do to age of car that bolts may break. Which bolts? Cars been rust proofed every year. Any suggestions?

Ok so I'm in need of some help before I do something stupid like actually blow up a truck. Not really. We have 2007 chevy silverpeaceofshito, here is the back story, we bought this truck ran fine after about a few months 1 gear went out, now here's where all the part buying comes in, so I went to change the 1/2 solenoid so while in there changed all of them, put it back together went through all the gears drove to my dad's ran beautiful, well we went to leave when I put it in reverse I heard a pop did quit know where it came from but sounded like front right, that's when service 4wd light came on so, then it was driving slow wouldn't shift gears stuck in 3rd, took it to earl bros in fremont, they said the fuel pump driver module was not sending anything to the transmission so here is a list of parts I have changed, also here are the only codes that are popping up p0700/ p2534 1. All modules in tranny (4 total) 2. 4wd actuator 3. 4wd motor and selector switch sensor 4. Selector switch in dash 5. Fuel pump driver module. 6. Transmission control module 7. Ign switch in column. Because of code p2534
And yep you guessed still in limp mod and and 4wd service light on. Any suggestions and or help would be greatly appreciated.

Ok so I'm in need of some help before I do something stupid like actually blow up a truck. Not really. We have 2007 chevy silverpeaceofshito, here is the back story, we bought this truck ran fine after about a few months 1 gear went out, now here's where all the part buying comes in, so I went to change the 1/2 solenoid so while in there changed all of them, put it back together went through all the gears drove to my dad's ran beautiful, well we went to leave when I put it in reverse I heard a pop did quit know where it came from but sounded like front right, that's when service 4wd light came on so, then it was driving slow wouldn't shift gears stuck in 3rd, took it to earl bros in fremont, they said the fuel pump driver module was not sending anything to the transmission so here is a list of parts I have changed, also here are the only codes that are popping up p0700/ p2534 1. All modules in tranny (4 total) 2. 4wd actuator 3. 4wd motor and selector switch sensor 4. Selector switch in dash 5. Fuel pump driver module. 6. Transmission control module 7. Ign switch in column. Because of code p2534
And yep you guessed still in limp mod and and 4wd service light on. Any suggestions and or help would be greatly appreciated.

Ok so I'm in need of some help before I do something stupid like actually blow up a truck. Not really. We have 2007 chevy silverpeaceofshito, here is the back story, we bought this truck ran fine after about a few months 1 gear went out, now here's where all the part buying comes in, so I went to change the 1/2 solenoid so while in there changed all of them, put it back together went through all the gears drove to my dad's ran beautiful, well we went to leave when I put it in reverse I heard a pop did quit know where it came from but sounded like front right, that's when service 4wd light came on so, then it was driving slow wouldn't shift gears stuck in 3rd, took it to earl bros in fremont, they said the fuel pump driver module was not sending anything to the transmission so here is a list of parts I have changed, also here are the only codes that are popping up p0700/ p2534 1. All modules in tranny (4 total) 2. 4wd actuator 3. 4wd motor and selector switch sensor 4. Selector switch in dash 5. Fuel pump driver module. 6. Transmission control module 7. Ign switch in column. Because of code p2534
And yep you guessed still in limp mod and and 4wd service light on. Any suggestions and or help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,
So I bought a Bluetooth scanner recently and it spit out the code related to the engine light. Here's the code.
Raw code: 0446 ECU: 10 Status: Confirmed Evaporative emission (EVAP) system, vent control - circuit malfunction Evaporative Control Vent Control Malfunction
So it has something to do with the EVAP system. I was just wondering if taking this car (97 camry) on a 2 hour drive up east would cause any issues with the engine or fuel system? I have been driving it for past 2 weeks after the light came on and it hasn't been a problem thus far.
I don't think it's a major job. I could probably get the solenoid and some tools and fix it myself. But the weather has been horrible here recently and I don't have a garage unfortunately.

Shifting problems. I'll do my best to explain. So when I bought the truck I knew it had transmission problems. So it was shifting pretty hard. Like jostling you in your seat in lower gears even if not accelerating hard so I decided to get it fixed by a shop that's been in buissness for many years and seems to have a decent reputation. I had mine remanufactured. Fast forward to me taking it back 4 times still having problems, they day they can't find anything wrong with it. I can't figure out why but when I'm driving it shifts hard still but not as bad as it used to. The real problem seems to be going from low range gears to high range. It will get to 3rd or 4th and when it goes to shift again it revs up and goes out of gear, as if I'm in neutral, revs way up on rpm's but no acceleration. I let off the gas and will press again and if I slow enough it'll shift hard as hell like it caught a gear but again I'll accelerate up to get to the next gear and it does the same thing as I described. So I'll manually put it in 3rd and drive it like that to make it back home. Now this issue only seems to happen after my truck has idled for a handful of minutes, like a long red light or a fast food restaurant. If I just crank it and go from the house without having to idle somewhere it will shift all the way into high range and drive completely normal other than shifting roughly until I idle too long. I don't believe the transmission is overheating because I've watched the temp gauge. I'm not a very mechanical person. I've struggled to figure out what's wrong and still can't. I know this is a weird situation and a long message so thank you any and everyone who takes the time to read and for the help.

Shifting problems. I'll do my best to explain. So when I bought the truck I knew it had transmission problems. So it was shifting pretty hard. Like jostling you in your seat in lower gears even if not accelerating hard so I decided to get it fixed by a shop that's been in buissness for many years and seems to have a decent reputation. I had mine remanufactured. Fast forward to me taking it back 4 times still having problems, they day they can't find anything wrong with it. I can't figure out why but when I'm driving it shifts hard still but not as bad as it used to. The real problem seems to be going from low range gears to high range. It will get to 3rd or 4th and when it goes to shift again it revs up and goes out of gear, as if I'm in neutral, revs way up on rpm's but no acceleration. I let off the gas and will press again and if I slow enough it'll shift hard as hell like it caught a gear but again I'll accelerate up to get to the next gear and it does the same thing as I described. So I'll manually put it in 3rd and drive it like that to make it back home. Now this issue only seems to happen after my truck has idled for a handful of minutes, like a long red light or a fast food restaurant. If I just crank it and go from the house without having to idle somewhere it will shift all the way into high range and drive completely normal other than shifting roughly until I idle too long. I don't believe the transmission is overheating because I've watched the temp gauge. I'm not a very mechanical person. I've struggled to figure out what's wrong and still can't. I know this is a weird situation and a long message so thank you any and everyone who takes the time to read and for the help.

2017 Chevy Equinox LT
I've been trying to diagnose an AC concern in this car for a while. The issue is after driving for a while, the engine starts to bog down at idle, and I noticed the A/C loses temperature while it does this. I checked the A/C pressures, and high side sits at ~380psi after the condenser, the high pressure sensor reads up to ~420psi before the condenser. Low side reads ~85-90 psi. This extra load on the compressor is bogging down the engine at idle. All the AC lines are hot to the touch ~90-110° F, and the HVAC blows lukewarm, 70°F.
I noticed the cooling fan has failed, it blows a 40A fuse, and I narrowed it down to the motor. Unplugged that for now, and put a large shop fan to the front of the car to retest. Now the low side lines are cold to the touch, and good A/C performance, but the high side pressure still reads around 380psi at the high pressure sensor (before the condenser) so, an improvement, but this pressure is adding a lot of heat. The high side lines are still at ~110°F, and the engine bogs at idle.
So far I've verified:
The clutch spins, makes pressure
Low side lines are clear
EVAP core is clear
Cooling fan is shot **
I shotgunned in an expansion valve since I don't have a great way to test it, same result, so I don't believe the original is faulty.
Tomorrow I'm going to remove the bumper cover to get at the high side lines and test them for flow, the high side did seem a little restrictive when I flow tested it with compressed air, so My thought is either an issue internal to the condenser, damage from overheating due to the failed radiator fan maybe? Or some sort of issue with the compressor solenoid.
The thing that's holding me up, is I don't understand why the low side also reads high, if it were to be a condenser blockage. Although thinking about it, it might be worth hooking up the pressure gauges again and reading low side pressure with the new expansion valve AND the big shop fan running, I can't remember if I got those readings yet... Sorry it's been a long day haha
Anyway, thanks for reading through all that, any Chevy/AC people have any tips or ideas as to what this could be? Thanks again

Just got a radio for the car and it is locked. Will the XTOOL D8BT Scanner be able to unlock it?